Chuya

At the counter with the charcoal grill's radiant heat close at hand, the first order of business is the signature amireba. Skewered liver is wrapped in delicate caul fat before hitting the coals, allowing the rich, melting fat to baste the liver as it cooks and giving every bite a robust savor. The widely praised tsukune chicken meatballs are just as essential, whether seasoned simply with salt to highlight the meat or glazed in sweet-savory tare sauce and dredged through a rich egg yolk.

Fresh Offal Skewers and Small Plates

The skewer selection is extensive. Meat-and-scallion pairings like negi-tan (tongue), negi-reba (liver), and negi-kashira (temple) sit alongside texture-rich specialty cuts, from chewy teppo intestine to thick-cut tanmoto tongue root. Between skewers, light accompaniments keep the palate fresh: ponzu-dressed chicken skin (tori kawa ponzu), spicy kobukuro yukhoe, and gently simmered white offal stew (shiro motsu nikomi). Exclusive to this Roka branch, chicken cutlets (tori katsu) and satisfying conclusions like grilled onigiri or minced meat curry rice provide plenty of substance at modest prices.

From Bottled Beers to Sesame Shochu Highballs

The drinks list is well tuned to charcoal grilling. Draft Kirin Ichiban Shibori offers a clean pour, while medium bottles of Sapporo Lager Red Star and Hoppy (available in white or black) make natural companions for rich skewers. For something different, the Gari-Goma Highball combines sesame shochu with pickled ginger, alongside sweet grated-pear sours (oroshi nashi hai) and warm sake from Niigata.

Tucked into Minami-Karasuyama, Setagaya, Chuya works just as well for a solo diner popping in for a few quick skewers as it does for friends settling in for a relaxed dinner. The entire shop is non-smoking and payment is strictly cash-only, so it is best to come prepared with yen.